RABBIT CARE
When you have collected your new rabbit give it a chance to settle into its new home. Ideally put into the new hutch and leave inside for at least one day. Teach your new rabbit that you are nothing to be scared of. Use its name and let it come and sniff your hand before you take it from its hutch. I always prefer my rabbits to continue on the food they are used to but if you want to switch to your choice do this gradually, mixing a little into the current food, gradually increasing the new food over a week period, then you can switch to just the new food.
Rabbits will not eat dirty hay but need to graze on fresh hay almost continuously to keep their teeth in order. You can get hay racks which attach to the wire of the hutch.
Rabbits need a daily supply of fresh dry-food, hay and water. If your rabbit has been used to eating greens then these can be offered however too many greens can cause soft droppings. I do advise not giving your baby rabbit greens until they are at least 16 weeks old.
Rabbits will not eat dirty hay but need to graze on fresh hay almost continuously to keep their teeth in order. You can get hay racks which attach to the wire of the hutch.
Rabbits need a daily supply of fresh dry-food, hay and water. If your rabbit has been used to eating greens then these can be offered however too many greens can cause soft droppings. I do advise not giving your baby rabbit greens until they are at least 16 weeks old.
KEYS TO GOOD HEALTH:-
Food,
Handling,
Exercise,
Clean and
Check your rabbit daily.
DIET
I feed each of my adult rabbits with:-
- Approx. 2 - 3 oz (50 - 75 grams) dried food per day in one meal (avbout a handful). Mums and Babies are fed twice a day.
- Constant supply of fresh, dry, dust and mite freed hay, which is the most important element of their diet.
- Fresh water
- Small handfuls of various fresh vegetables twice weekly.
The dried food is a complete food which contains all the the necessary nutrition, protein and vitamins required, to which should be added fibre in the form of hay and fresh vegetables to provide a full and balanced healthy feeding regime. Make sure that the rabbits eats everything in the dish before adding new otherwise he may only eat the 'best bits' and will not be getting a complete balanced diet, this is known as selective feeding and must be avoided. Remove any left over remains from the floor of the hutch as it may go mouldy and will be bad for the rabbit if he tries to eat it. Do not overfeed, and do not keep refilling the bowl as it becomes empty you are looking at providing 3% of the total body weight per day in the form of dried feed, together with unlimited hay and fresh water.
I now use my own mix of Allan & Page Breeder and Grower Pelletts, Youngs sweet meadow mix, Coney pellets and crushed oats, which I buy in large quantities from 'The Feedwarehouse', Browney lodge, Durham, DH7 8DX. I also buy my wood shavings there for £7.00 for a big bale. You can use any rabbit food but try and stick with the same food otherwise the rabbit will suffer with a bad stomach.
If the rabbit ever appears unwell has diarrhoea, constipation, looks in pain or off-colour, a couple of raspberry or blackberry leaves may help, or add some pro-biotic, which can be bought from Pets at Home, to their water. If he is sitting hunched up at the back of his hutch, maybe grinding his teeth, not eating or drinking you should get him to a vet if he does not improve by encouraging him to eat and the pro-biotic in the water. You will soon begin to feel fo how much your rabbit eats each day and his personality, etc so if something changes suddenly at any time keep a close eye on him! As a helpful hint, get an idea of what his weight is, weigh him regularly as he grows, and even as an adult, you will soon get the idea, and will be in a better position to detect any problems, if for instance he has a sudden weight loss.
Vegetables must be added very slowly and gradually, there is no rush so long as the rabbit has a good dried food and has plenty of fresh hay daily.
Food,
Handling,
Exercise,
Clean and
Check your rabbit daily.
DIET
I feed each of my adult rabbits with:-
- Approx. 2 - 3 oz (50 - 75 grams) dried food per day in one meal (avbout a handful). Mums and Babies are fed twice a day.
- Constant supply of fresh, dry, dust and mite freed hay, which is the most important element of their diet.
- Fresh water
- Small handfuls of various fresh vegetables twice weekly.
The dried food is a complete food which contains all the the necessary nutrition, protein and vitamins required, to which should be added fibre in the form of hay and fresh vegetables to provide a full and balanced healthy feeding regime. Make sure that the rabbits eats everything in the dish before adding new otherwise he may only eat the 'best bits' and will not be getting a complete balanced diet, this is known as selective feeding and must be avoided. Remove any left over remains from the floor of the hutch as it may go mouldy and will be bad for the rabbit if he tries to eat it. Do not overfeed, and do not keep refilling the bowl as it becomes empty you are looking at providing 3% of the total body weight per day in the form of dried feed, together with unlimited hay and fresh water.
I now use my own mix of Allan & Page Breeder and Grower Pelletts, Youngs sweet meadow mix, Coney pellets and crushed oats, which I buy in large quantities from 'The Feedwarehouse', Browney lodge, Durham, DH7 8DX. I also buy my wood shavings there for £7.00 for a big bale. You can use any rabbit food but try and stick with the same food otherwise the rabbit will suffer with a bad stomach.
If the rabbit ever appears unwell has diarrhoea, constipation, looks in pain or off-colour, a couple of raspberry or blackberry leaves may help, or add some pro-biotic, which can be bought from Pets at Home, to their water. If he is sitting hunched up at the back of his hutch, maybe grinding his teeth, not eating or drinking you should get him to a vet if he does not improve by encouraging him to eat and the pro-biotic in the water. You will soon begin to feel fo how much your rabbit eats each day and his personality, etc so if something changes suddenly at any time keep a close eye on him! As a helpful hint, get an idea of what his weight is, weigh him regularly as he grows, and even as an adult, you will soon get the idea, and will be in a better position to detect any problems, if for instance he has a sudden weight loss.
Vegetables must be added very slowly and gradually, there is no rush so long as the rabbit has a good dried food and has plenty of fresh hay daily.
Some fruit, vegetables and herbs that are safe to feed a rabbit are listed below:
Vegetables:
Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to):
Vegetables:
- Artichoke leaves
- Asparagus
- Baby Sweetcorns (but not full size ones)
- Beetroot (care with leafy tops as high levels of oxalic acid)
- Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties)
- Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts)
- Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets)
- Carrots (and carrot tops) – the roots should be limited as they are high in sugars
- Cauliflower (and the leaves)
- Celeriac
- Celery (and its leaves)
- Chicory
- Courgette (and flowers)
- Cucumber
- Curly Kale
- Fennel
- Green beans
- Kohl rabi
- Parsnip
- Peas (including the leaves and pods)
- Peppers (red, green and yellow)
- Pumpkin
- Radish Tops
- Rocket
- Romaine lettuce (not Iceberg or light coloured leaf)
- Spinach (only occasional)
- Spring Greens
- Squash (e.g. Butternut)
- Swede
- Turnip (only occasional)
- Watercress
Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to):
- Basil
- Coriander
- Dill
- Mint (peppermint)
- Parsley
- Oregano
- Rosemary
- Sage
- Thyme
Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content – up to 2 tablespoons worth per day):
Fruit, vegetables and herbs that should not be fed are:
- Apple
- Apricot
- Banana (high in potassium)
- Blackberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties)
- Blueberries
- Cherries
- Grapes
- Kiwi Fruit
- Mango
- Melon
- Nectarines
- Oranges (not the peel)
- Papaya
- Peaches
- Pears
- Pineapple
- Plums
- Raspberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties)
- Strawberries (and leaves)
- Tomatoes (not the leaves)
Fruit, vegetables and herbs that should not be fed are:
- Apple seeds
- Lettuce
- Potato and Potato Tops
- Rhubarb and Rhubarb Leaves
- Tomato Leaves
Once your rabbit is established with vegetables he will readily eat them. Don't stick to one vegetable as they all have different nutritional values. This also applies to fresh grass, so be careful if you are planning on letting your new bunny have a run on the grass. Vegetables should be given in their raw state and not cooked or frozen.
Lettuce should not be given to rabbits (especially young kits under 4 months of age) as it contains a substance called laudanum which can be harmful and even fatal especially in young bunnies.
Any plant or flower grown from a bulb should not be given to rabbits as they are poisonous. Also avoid any of the onion family, including leeks.
Lettuce should not be given to rabbits (especially young kits under 4 months of age) as it contains a substance called laudanum which can be harmful and even fatal especially in young bunnies.
Any plant or flower grown from a bulb should not be given to rabbits as they are poisonous. Also avoid any of the onion family, including leeks.
TREATS
Your rabbit will appreciate treats, but do not give daily as the sugar content can make them fat and prone to heart disease. Toys made from wood are a good idea as they keep the bunny entertained and they are also beneficial for their teeth. Treats to give are:-
- one weetabix
- one digestive or rich tea biscuit
- a small slice of apple (no pips)
- one strawberry
- a piece of banana (very addictive so not too many of these!!)
- a piece of toast
Your rabbit will appreciate treats, but do not give daily as the sugar content can make them fat and prone to heart disease. Toys made from wood are a good idea as they keep the bunny entertained and they are also beneficial for their teeth. Treats to give are:-
- one weetabix
- one digestive or rich tea biscuit
- a small slice of apple (no pips)
- one strawberry
- a piece of banana (very addictive so not too many of these!!)
- a piece of toast
POO!
Do not confuse diarrhoea with caecotrophs, A rabbit excretes waste products in the from of solid, round, brown pellets, which is what we find on the hutch floor, this is normal. He is alos capable of producing another type of product, known as caecotrophs which contains proteins and vitamins, which he eats as soon as it is passed, again, this is normal. This looks like a softer mass of poo, similar in shape to a bunch of grapes, and looks slightly wet. You will not see this often, as it is usually passed early in the morning or late at night, and eaten straight away. If you often do find it lying on the floor of the hutch, it is possible he is being overfed, or is too obese to reach to it as it is passed. If what you see is soft, gooey poo, stuck to the rabbits bottom and fur, and is very wet, sticky and smelly, and sometimes with a mucous, this is bad news and needs to be investigated if if doesn't clear up within a day or two. You must clean him too as this may attract flies.
Young rabbits up to (10/12 weeks old) can be prone to stomach problems, brought on by various causes: stress of being taken away from it's mother or/and siblings, travelling to a new home, change in diet, too much dried food in the diet, infection of the gut, bacteria, etc. Symptons may be referred to as Mucoid Enteritis, Bloat, Gastric Stasis, etc.. The cause is not always know. If you find your rabbit lethargic, not eating and/or drinking, has diarrhoea or constipation, has a bloated stomach which may sound 'sloshy', has a mucous discharge, and may be grinding his teeth (a sure sign of pain), then you must get him to a vet immediately. He will need to be given fluids and a possible injection to help to get his gut working again. Sadly, death is all too common from these symptons, and not enough is known to try to prevent as opposed to cure the symptons. Adding pro-biotic at this age will help to balance the good and the bad bacteria in the gut.
Do not confuse diarrhoea with caecotrophs, A rabbit excretes waste products in the from of solid, round, brown pellets, which is what we find on the hutch floor, this is normal. He is alos capable of producing another type of product, known as caecotrophs which contains proteins and vitamins, which he eats as soon as it is passed, again, this is normal. This looks like a softer mass of poo, similar in shape to a bunch of grapes, and looks slightly wet. You will not see this often, as it is usually passed early in the morning or late at night, and eaten straight away. If you often do find it lying on the floor of the hutch, it is possible he is being overfed, or is too obese to reach to it as it is passed. If what you see is soft, gooey poo, stuck to the rabbits bottom and fur, and is very wet, sticky and smelly, and sometimes with a mucous, this is bad news and needs to be investigated if if doesn't clear up within a day or two. You must clean him too as this may attract flies.
Young rabbits up to (10/12 weeks old) can be prone to stomach problems, brought on by various causes: stress of being taken away from it's mother or/and siblings, travelling to a new home, change in diet, too much dried food in the diet, infection of the gut, bacteria, etc. Symptons may be referred to as Mucoid Enteritis, Bloat, Gastric Stasis, etc.. The cause is not always know. If you find your rabbit lethargic, not eating and/or drinking, has diarrhoea or constipation, has a bloated stomach which may sound 'sloshy', has a mucous discharge, and may be grinding his teeth (a sure sign of pain), then you must get him to a vet immediately. He will need to be given fluids and a possible injection to help to get his gut working again. Sadly, death is all too common from these symptons, and not enough is known to try to prevent as opposed to cure the symptons. Adding pro-biotic at this age will help to balance the good and the bad bacteria in the gut.
TEETH
Rabbit's teeth grow continuously throught it's life, nibbling on hay and grass and carrots help to keep the teeth in shape. Wooden toys are a good idea or a wooden clothes peg attached onto the mesh for them to chew on.
Rabbit's teeth grow continuously throught it's life, nibbling on hay and grass and carrots help to keep the teeth in shape. Wooden toys are a good idea or a wooden clothes peg attached onto the mesh for them to chew on.
TOENAILS
A rabbits toenails grow continuously throughout their life too. You should clip the toenails on a regular basis so that they do not get overgrown. Allowing exercise on concrete ground will help to keep them down. You have to make sure that you do not cut them too short as you may damage the 'quick' of the nail and cause it to bleed. It is a job that can easily be done at home with a good pair of nail clippers. Please contact me if you want me to do your Rabbits nails and I will show you how to do it.
A rabbits toenails grow continuously throughout their life too. You should clip the toenails on a regular basis so that they do not get overgrown. Allowing exercise on concrete ground will help to keep them down. You have to make sure that you do not cut them too short as you may damage the 'quick' of the nail and cause it to bleed. It is a job that can easily be done at home with a good pair of nail clippers. Please contact me if you want me to do your Rabbits nails and I will show you how to do it.
VACCINATIONS
There are two very serious illnesses which can affect rabbits and both of these have a vaccination which is very important for the protection of your rabbit. It is a combined vaccine and can be given from 12 weeks of age.
MYXOMATOSIS
Myxomatosis is caused by a virus. It is a type of Pox virus and grows best in a rabbits skin.
Symptoms include puffy, fluid swelling around the head and face. 'Sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the inside of the ear and puffy swelling around the anus and genitalia. Within a day these swellings can become severe and cause blindness.
VIRAL HAEMORRHAGIC DISEASE (VHD)
Symptoms, which can vary, include loss of appetite and nose bleeding. Nearly 50% of rabbits who catch this disease will not survive.
There are two very serious illnesses which can affect rabbits and both of these have a vaccination which is very important for the protection of your rabbit. It is a combined vaccine and can be given from 12 weeks of age.
MYXOMATOSIS
Myxomatosis is caused by a virus. It is a type of Pox virus and grows best in a rabbits skin.
Symptoms include puffy, fluid swelling around the head and face. 'Sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the inside of the ear and puffy swelling around the anus and genitalia. Within a day these swellings can become severe and cause blindness.
VIRAL HAEMORRHAGIC DISEASE (VHD)
Symptoms, which can vary, include loss of appetite and nose bleeding. Nearly 50% of rabbits who catch this disease will not survive.
NEUTERING
Neutering both male and female rabbits is strongly recommended. In females spaying before a rabbit is 2 years ol prevent uterine cancer and neutering of males (castration) prevents aggressive and sexual behavious. If you are planning on keeping your rabbit as a pet only, or keeping 2 or more rabbits together, then you should definitely have them neutered. The operation can be done as early as 14/16 weeks of age for bucks , when you can see that the bucks testicles have dropped and the buck is starting to bother the doe, the cost will be approx £45 + after care medication. It is a bigger operation for the doe, and can be undertaken from 5/6 months of age and will cost approx £50 + after care medication. Please note if you are keeping a doe and buck together the buck can still be fertile for a few weeks after the operation.
Neutering both male and female rabbits is strongly recommended. In females spaying before a rabbit is 2 years ol prevent uterine cancer and neutering of males (castration) prevents aggressive and sexual behavious. If you are planning on keeping your rabbit as a pet only, or keeping 2 or more rabbits together, then you should definitely have them neutered. The operation can be done as early as 14/16 weeks of age for bucks , when you can see that the bucks testicles have dropped and the buck is starting to bother the doe, the cost will be approx £45 + after care medication. It is a bigger operation for the doe, and can be undertaken from 5/6 months of age and will cost approx £50 + after care medication. Please note if you are keeping a doe and buck together the buck can still be fertile for a few weeks after the operation.
FLY STRIKE
In hot weather, flies may be attracted to your rabbits hutch. The flies will be attracted to the back end of the rabbit, and may well lay eggs in the fur, which hatch out into maggots. The maggots will burrow and eat into the skin of your rabbit. This is a nasty problem, and you must keep a daily check on your rabbit especially in the summer months, and must be kept clean and dry. A preventative treatment can be purchased form the vet, or you can use repellent sprays and shampoos to help.
BEDDING
I put a thick layer of wood shavings on the floor of my hutch and straw for bedding. You can also use the wood based cat litter, but it must be the wood based stuff. The 'toilet corner' should be cleaned every couple of days, use a cat litter tray with wood shavings or wood based cat litter. The hutch should be cleaned out thoroughly once a weekly. Once you have removed all the old bedding, spray the hutch with a pet disinfectant, allow to dry before adding new bedding and returning the rabbit.
In hot weather, flies may be attracted to your rabbits hutch. The flies will be attracted to the back end of the rabbit, and may well lay eggs in the fur, which hatch out into maggots. The maggots will burrow and eat into the skin of your rabbit. This is a nasty problem, and you must keep a daily check on your rabbit especially in the summer months, and must be kept clean and dry. A preventative treatment can be purchased form the vet, or you can use repellent sprays and shampoos to help.
BEDDING
I put a thick layer of wood shavings on the floor of my hutch and straw for bedding. You can also use the wood based cat litter, but it must be the wood based stuff. The 'toilet corner' should be cleaned every couple of days, use a cat litter tray with wood shavings or wood based cat litter. The hutch should be cleaned out thoroughly once a weekly. Once you have removed all the old bedding, spray the hutch with a pet disinfectant, allow to dry before adding new bedding and returning the rabbit.
Rabbits are sociable, interesting, inquisitive, intelligent animals which crave attention and love. They can easily be house trained to a litter tray. They can become part of the family and do all the things that dogs and cats do. They will play tricks and games etc... they interact with their family, and bond with other pet and so much more. They prefer to laze around and sleep in their bed through the day, and are active at dusk and dawn, so are ideal companions for busy, working owners, and what better way to unwind after a busy day, than to fuss over your pet rabbit. Is there any wonder rabbits are fast becoming the 3rd most popular pet after dogs and cats!
During their first year of life, rabbits have to endure leaving their mum, and their litter mates, travelling to a new environment when they are so young. They have to get ued to a new owner, new home and probably a new diet. They have to learn to wee and poo in one spot, and not to nibble or hide behind the tv. They even have to make new friends with and share their home with a big dog, or a cat, or being chased by kids. Then jut when you thought they were settling down, there hormone kick in around the 6 - 7 month mark. Then 'may' turn all hyperactive, and energetic, maybe occaionally they might even become territorial and grumpy, a little bit friky perhaps, and may tart digging, or chewing or spraying like a tom cat. It is probably in this first year of life, that most rabbits are discarded as unwanted pets, moved on to new owners, sent to rescue centres, or worse...Maybe at this age, the owner might feel that a rabbit was a mistake. But pleae be PATIENT. This stage does come and go, and doesn't always happen anyway. You should consider getting the bunny neutered at thi age. Once the rabbit reaches his first birthday, and goes through his second year of life, he does settle down, and will come into his own , his personality will hine through, if it hasn't already. Many, many people have got through thi first year, and couldn't possibly imagine life without their fury companion. All rabbits go through puberty, but some are so laid back, you jut never noticed. And you can't imagine that you are going to bring home an 8 week old baby bunny that i going to instinctively know how to be good! They need to learn and they need to be taught!
During their first year of life, rabbits have to endure leaving their mum, and their litter mates, travelling to a new environment when they are so young. They have to get ued to a new owner, new home and probably a new diet. They have to learn to wee and poo in one spot, and not to nibble or hide behind the tv. They even have to make new friends with and share their home with a big dog, or a cat, or being chased by kids. Then jut when you thought they were settling down, there hormone kick in around the 6 - 7 month mark. Then 'may' turn all hyperactive, and energetic, maybe occaionally they might even become territorial and grumpy, a little bit friky perhaps, and may tart digging, or chewing or spraying like a tom cat. It is probably in this first year of life, that most rabbits are discarded as unwanted pets, moved on to new owners, sent to rescue centres, or worse...Maybe at this age, the owner might feel that a rabbit was a mistake. But pleae be PATIENT. This stage does come and go, and doesn't always happen anyway. You should consider getting the bunny neutered at thi age. Once the rabbit reaches his first birthday, and goes through his second year of life, he does settle down, and will come into his own , his personality will hine through, if it hasn't already. Many, many people have got through thi first year, and couldn't possibly imagine life without their fury companion. All rabbits go through puberty, but some are so laid back, you jut never noticed. And you can't imagine that you are going to bring home an 8 week old baby bunny that i going to instinctively know how to be good! They need to learn and they need to be taught!
HOT WEATHER CARE
In hot weather remember to check that water bottles are flowing freely.
Make sure they are topped up regularly with cool, fresh water.
Some rabbits will also appreciate something cool to lie against, such as
A frozen bottle of water or
A freezer block
A bathroom tile that's been in the fridge for a while
Move hutches and runs into a shady spot.
Maybe reduce the amount of bedding as certainly many of my rabbits in hot weather kick the sawdust out so they can lie on the bare wood.
Check and clean toilet corners regularly. Flies will be attracted to them.
In hot weather remember to check that water bottles are flowing freely.
Make sure they are topped up regularly with cool, fresh water.
Some rabbits will also appreciate something cool to lie against, such as
A frozen bottle of water or
A freezer block
A bathroom tile that's been in the fridge for a while
Move hutches and runs into a shady spot.
Maybe reduce the amount of bedding as certainly many of my rabbits in hot weather kick the sawdust out so they can lie on the bare wood.
Check and clean toilet corners regularly. Flies will be attracted to them.
COLD WEATHER CARE
Rabbits do seem to cope with colder weather better than hot weather.
To help them cope with this cold winter even better a few hints.
Position the hutch away from draughts
If necessary put a bigger roof over the hutch to keep rain out, damp and rabbits do not mix!
Give the rabbit more bedding. Hay is a better insulator than straw, but straw is also a good bedding and rabbits are very partial to barley straw, so the extra food will also help keep them warm
Remember to check the water bottle. If necessary have spare bottles so you can replace the frozen one immediately
Keep the temperature constant. It's not a good idea to bring the rabbit into the house for too long during the winter, get him all nice and warm and then return him to the cold garden.
Rabbits do seem to cope with colder weather better than hot weather.
To help them cope with this cold winter even better a few hints.
Position the hutch away from draughts
If necessary put a bigger roof over the hutch to keep rain out, damp and rabbits do not mix!
Give the rabbit more bedding. Hay is a better insulator than straw, but straw is also a good bedding and rabbits are very partial to barley straw, so the extra food will also help keep them warm
Remember to check the water bottle. If necessary have spare bottles so you can replace the frozen one immediately
Keep the temperature constant. It's not a good idea to bring the rabbit into the house for too long during the winter, get him all nice and warm and then return him to the cold garden.